Yz125 carb size

Yz125 carb size DEFAULT
Model Year1994CarburetorMikuniCarburetor TypeTM35SSModel Number4JY10Main Jet320Jet Needle6EJ35-69-3Throttle Valve Cutout4.0Pilot Jet15Jet Needle Clip PositionThird (3rd) From The TopStarter Jet80Valve Seat Size2.2 mm (0.087 in.)Pilot Air Screw Stock Setting1-5/8 – 2-1/8 Turns OutFuel Level15.2 – 17.2 mm (0.60 – 0.68 in.)Model Year1995 – 1998
CarburetorMikuniCarburetor TypeTMX36SSModel Number– European Models4PE10– All Other Models4PE10Main Jet– European Models370– All Other Models360Jet Needle6EG36-63-3Pilot JetThrottle Valve Cutout6.5Pilot Jet– European Models50– All Other Models55Jet Needle Clip PositionThird (3rd) From The TopStarter Jet80Valve Seat Size3.8 mm (0.15 in.)Pilot Air Screw Stock Setting1995 -1995– European Models2– All Other Models1-3/41997– European Models1-1/2– All Other Models1-3/419982-1/4Float Level (1995 – 1996)14.5 – 15.5 mm (0.57 – 0.61 in.)Fuel Level (1997 – 1998)3.5 – 4.5 mm (0.140 – 0.180 in.)Model Year1999CarburetorMikuniCarburetor TypeTMX36SSModel Number– European Models5ET10– All Other Models5ET00Main Jet350Jet Needle– European Models6DHD52-76-4– All Other Models6DHD53-76-3Throttle Valve Cutout6.5Pilot Jet– European Models50– All Other Models45Jet Needle Clip PositionFourth (4th) From The TopStarter Jet80Valve Seat Size3.8 mm (0.15 in.)Pilot Air Screw Stock Setting– European Models1-1/4 Turns Out– All Other Models1-3/4 Turns OutFuel Level
11.5 – 12.5 mm (0.45 – 0.49 in.)Model Year2000CarburetorMikuniCarburetor TypeTMX36SSModel Number– European Models5HD10– All Other Models5HD00Main Jet– European Models380– All Other Models350Jet Needle– European Models6DHY56-75– All Other Models6DHY53-75Jet Needle Clip PositionThird (3rd) From The TopThrottle Valve Cutout6.5Pilot Jet35Starter Jet80Valve Seat Size3.8 mm (0.15 in.)Pilot Air Screw Stock Setting– European Models1-3/4 Turns Out– All Other Models1-1/2 Turns OutFuel Level12.5 – 13.5 mm (0.49 – 0.53 in.)Model Year2001Carburetor TypeMikuniCarburetor TypeTMX38SSModel Number– European Models5MV210– All Other Models5MV100Main Jet– European Models450– All Other Models460Jet Needle– European Models6BHY1-75– All Other Models6BGK9-75Jet Needle Clip PositionThird (3rd) From The TopThrottle Valve Cutout5.75Pilot Jet– European Models30– All Other Models25Starter Jet80Valve Seat Size3.8 mm (0.15 in.)Pilot Air Screw Stock Setting– European Models1-3/4 Turns Out– All Other Models1-1/2 Turns OutFuel Level13.5 – 14.5 mm (0.53 – 0.57 in.)Float Level
8mm (bottom of float to body)
Sours: https://www.fixyourdirtbike.com/fix/yamaha/yamaha-yz125/1994-2001-yamaha-yz125/1994-2001-yamaha-yz125-service-specifications/1994-2001-yamaha-yz125-carburetor-specifications/

Yamaha YZ125

The Yamaha YZ125 is a motocrossracing motorcycle with a two-stroke 124.9 cc (7.62 cu in) displacementsingle-cylinder engine made by Yamaha since 1974. It is available to the public. For the first two years it was made with dual rear shocks, then changing to a monoshock.[3] The YZ125 has been ridden to five AMA National Motocross Championships, and multiple AMA Regional Supercross Championships.[4]

In 2001, Yamaha released a bike designed to complement the YZ125, the four-stroke YZ250F. The two bikes shared a rolling chassis and are eligible to compete in the same racing class. The YZ250F has a slight horsepower advantage.[5]

The YZ125 has a 124 cc (7.6 cu in) reed valve-inductedtwo-stroke engine. It was air cooled from 1974 to 1980, and liquid cooled since 1981. It has a Mikuni 38 mm TMX series carburetor.[6] The engine produces 35 hp (26 kW).[1]

The YZ125 has been built with five- or six-speed manual sequential gearbox depending on model year. The 2005 model has a constant-mesh, wet, multiple-disc coil-spring clutch.

From 1973 through 2004, the YZ125 had a single backbone frame made from steel. It generally averaged from 176 to 198 lb (80 to 90 kg).[citation needed] For the 2005 year, Yamaha switched to a single backbone frame constructed from an aluminum alloy. This frame material change dropped the dry weight to 190 lb (86 kg).[citation needed] For 2008 models, the wheel assemblies and front fork suspension were redesigned, yielding additional weight savings, making wet weight, no gas sub-200 lb. Aluminum-framed YZ125s are notably "flickable" and sometimes this trait is seen as a drawback since they tend to become more difficult to control on rough surfaces.[2] The YZ125 used a conventional telescopic fork tube through 1988, then in 1989, added the first upside-down fork. A very well knows the amount of riders have chosen this as their go-to bike, such as AMA Champ Dom Barbuto and his brother Nick Barbuto, and X-Games medalist Kyle Ford. Also, 11-time Nationals winner and rival of Eli Tomac, Richard Rich


External links[edit]

Sours: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_YZ125
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  2. Jimmi simpson youtube
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Originally Posted by arnego2View Post

How do you do the setting up, changing several things at once or do one at the time?

Normally you start with the flow level, then do the pilot circuit, from there the needle then the main.

I try to do it one step at a time. I have gotten agressive a time or 2 and not gotten anywhere.....same old nasty bog off idle. I am guilty of making an adjustment and just running in place, but its obvious there is still a problem. I took special care to set the float level, but realized afterward that I set it per the 2002 spec and not the 2000. Not sure if they are different. May need to look at that again.

---------- Post added at 07:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:57 PM ----------


Originally Posted by Randog LeaderView Post

You should start with the basics before trying to do any jetting changes. Common mechanical issues that mimic poor jetting:

-Clogged or dirty air filter
-Clogged or worn silencer
-Air leaks at magneto side crank seal
-Air leaks at crankcase joint, base gasket, reed valve, etc
-Leaking main seal on the wet side allowing oil into the crankcases
-Worn primary coil
-Worn spark plug and/or spark plug boot
-Leaking float needle

After all of that has been verified to not exist, set the float height per the manual (tricky since you have a mismatch but they may be close to the same).

If it still bogs off of the bottom, you are lean on the pilot circuit. I really doubt that, though, unless the carb mismatch is WAY off or someone already leaned out the pilot jet. It is very hot down here in BAMA right now and I am having to use a smaller/leaner pilot until it gets cooler.

Filter is clean...even tried without
Already repacked silencer...
Replaced all seals during rebuild and recently rechecked by pressurizing the crankcase vent and held pressure good....
Have checked ignition resistance at the various locations and seem to be in spec per book....
New plugs and brand new plug boot...
Installed a slightly fatter needle to make up for any wear in bore.
New Vforce reed assembly...
Compression around 145 PSI after several kicks...
power valve linkage moving well....can't verify actual valve movement.

It could be lean on the pilot, but plug always seems to be wet when I check it. thats why I keep trying to lean it out. When I found the carb it was set up like a 1999 with a 50 pilot and 350 main. Have not gone back to that setting since seems to be wet all the time. Currently running a 30 and 350. But may need to try the 40 or 50 again. It has been a battle the whole way and seems I have gotten nowhere. Bog after bog after bog!!!
Sours: http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/
About 2 Stroke Jetting, especially needles

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Carb size yz125

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