Outboard flotation bracket

Outboard flotation bracket DEFAULT

Standard High Flotation Single Outboard Engine Bracket - 13° Transom

If an outboard engine bracket is the ultimate add-on for most outboard-equipped boats, this particular one will up the ante in almost all respects. You will not only benefit from a substantial increment in speed and fuel range without having to replace your existing outboard engine but you’ll also get away with repowering with a much powerful, and potentially heavy one, if you choose to. Your stance at rest will be at a flatter angle as the extra flotation volume, applied just at the right spot for maximum leverage, could help compensate for the extra weight of the bigger engine, but more than that you will indeed gain a flatter running angle, mostly due to the generous setback of this bracket. With that, you will gain a more efficiently running hull and a considerably drier cockpit

You will benefit from also having an overall better handling boat and one that can shoot out of the hole usually in half the time it used to take with the old engine placement. It will also make your boat safer offering a way lower platform from which to push yourself up to the deck when in the water as well as the ideal place where to affix an available as an option swim ladder. 

Our fabricators have been putting together engine brackets almost since they become a thing in deep-V offshore racing boats, whose roots can be followed back to our base in sunny Miami, arguably the US cradle of the class. We learned the ropes at the elbow of the greats back when Thunder Alley (NE 188th St.) was a barren expanse and three large warehouses where the fastest and meanest boats in the world were hand-built, and have maintained, through different iterations, an uninterrupted presence in the Southern Florida boating scene ever since.

And there’s nothing small-time about our outboard engine bracket products as our stuff is sold as OEM to most of all Greater Miami-based boat manufacturers and some of the biggest in upstate Florida, and we have type certifications from the NMMA and the ABYC. If you have outboard engine bracket questions don’t hesitate and do contact us for a no-compromise consultation.


  • This standard bracket's design is optimized for 13-degree transom angles.
  • All of the standard bracket models are typically in stock and ship faster than the custom models. Average door-to-door transit times to the contiguous US should be within the 3 weeks time frame. This item ships freight only, and we can only ship it to commercial addresses for this reason.
  • All-aluminum construction using 0.375” (transom and engine plates) and 0.250” (rest of the structure) thick cold-formed Alcoa 5052 H32 series sheets.
  • 54 gallons of added flotation volume in the deep-vee-shaped airbox for added dynamic stability and a flatter standstill attitude. 
  • Exclusive dual-electrostatic powdered-coatings: primer + gloss powder coating for the ultimate inmarine environment protection. We first apply an electrostatic primer coat, oven-cure it, and then apply a thick, high mil powder coating for the final external coating. No other competitor in the market goes that far to ensure your new bracket's appearance and durability.
  • Awlgrip Sandtex textured, anti-slip treatment to the platform's top surface to ensure perfect traction, safety, and durability when wet.
  • Standard 2 x 3.75-inch saltwater specific sacrificial anodes (zincs).
  • Twist-off, wide 8-inch easy access marine spec hatch.
  • Includes all mounting aluminum backing plates, SS screws, and SS nuts.
Sours: https://weldingworldinc.com/products/standard-high-flotation-single-outboard-engine-bracket-13-transom

Eastward Boats inc.

Our transom

The advantages of an outboard motor bracket:

Less draft - The bracket adds additional displacement (floatation) which helps to support the weight of the outboard motor. The outboard can also be mounted higher on the bracket than if it was mounted directly on the transom, reducing drag.

More cockpit space - Without the motor hanging on the transom there's no rigging or motor cowling encroaching into the cockpit. No motor well and no need for a secondary transom bulkhead.

Better performance - You have the cockpit room of a 24 foot hull with the lighter weight and less wetted surface of a 19 foot 6 inch hull. The higher outboard mounting position and decreased drag makes the boat easier for the outboard to push. This equals faster speeds and more fuel efficiency.

Safety - The full heighth transom gives you peace of mind with reduced possibility of water coming over the stern, even when backing down in heavy seas.

Less noise - With the outboard motor further away from the helm and separated by the transom, it's quieter.

Protection - Outboard trims completely out of the water.

Better water access - A ladder mounted to the bracket lets you use the bracket like a swim platform.

Bay Boat






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Sours: http://www.eastwardboats.com/bass_and_bays_007.htm
  1. Hamster tubes
  2. Original jbl flip
  3. New house doorbell

Spokaloo wrote:Jerry, you are 100% correct that it would increase the buoyancy, no doubt. Do you remember when you were in your panga in Alaska and you were cruising around light, with your gear in the back? You remember how nose-light she was in a chop, pounding more because she didn't keep her cutwater in the waves? Mexican pangas have that same problem in some circumstances because they overpower them with too much engine. Long story short, when you put the big lever arm back there, you make the bow lighter, which in turn allows it to lift out of the water further on a plane, making a shorter (less efficient) waterline length, and exposing the shallower deadrise area aft to the waves. It isn't that it wouldn't work, its a question of application.

I am gonna try to crawl in your head on this one. My money says you want a working aft deck where you can reach right over the transom for getting a big flattie out of the water, and gain that extra space in the cockpit for coolers, etc. For an increase of 3 sheets of plywood, you build the PG25, get 3 feet more boat, save the cost of a bracket, and have a better boat. So you have some cabinets aft, no biggie. You weren't gonna be able to pull fish through the outboard bracket anyways, so you'd be working the sides of the boat regardless. The 25 will have more storage as well, having the boxes aft for batteries and junk you normally have a hard time hiding.

In the end, its your boat, do whatever the hell you want. Take whatever you hear here for what its worth, but we are typically well meaning people that want you to have a quality boat with no quirks or problems in the end.

That, and I think I'd build a GS28X, if it were me....



You seem to have a perfect idea of what I have in mind! Maybe its just the other 25' plans are such bigger boats than their 21 or 22' counterparts are that I was intimidated for no good reason in tackling the larger boat? As you know, many plans of similar hulls are a very much a "bigger boat" in more ways than one when you move up a few feet in length . Much more involved in cost, power, fit-out, trailering, and "Ease of use" drops off much more sharply than the jump from the 22 to the 25' Panga does. I see the common sense in building the bigger boat, in for a penny , in for a pound :)or I prefer;

"If you are going to be a bear, be a Grizzly"

The only reason I favored the 22' hull is the power requirement seems to be proportionally smaller and a "Known entity" for me as far as economy of use is concerned. In reflection perhaps your advice is sage; moving up to a 25' ,a 4-Stroke Yamaha or Honda 90 would probably be just about perfect for the bigger hull of 25.

If the O/O simply used the extra power of the 90 to get the 25' up on step and then throttled back a little to the sweet spot it may not burn a whole lot more fuel than the 70 on a 22 would? I am going to research the surface area and horsepower calculations for the two, at rest and underway and see what the math says about "Power" needs once we get the two areas of hull in motion.

Thank you for finally explaining the transom mount vs. PF bracket mount in a way that I can visualize and completely understand ; for the first time since I got this in my head it makes perfect sense E, and yes, you are also succinct in explaining how the little blue boat rode without a body in the front keeping it "pinned into the chop" or when it wanted to get it on step a little quicker.

This was most often the scenario, me driving at the center console with someone standing next to me and one other guy laying up in the other good riding spot, which happened to be right up in the lee of the "V" in the bow. It really did make it ride a lot better if snotty , so much so that I would tell someone , get up in the "V" and lay down for me so she settles into it a bit.

Yours is by far the best explanation of the "Applied" physics at work on this design and proposed changes that I have read in all the posts on the subject. The Why and why not of the two ..Well done.

I hope other who want to put a bracket on the 22 read this and finally "Get it" as I have, thank you :idea:Headed to the yard with my 100' measuring tape to "Redesign" my "Boatshop/greenhouse" dimensions to build the 25'...


"Professor Emeritus of the "Wil-E-Coyote School of Gunsmithing & Boat Building"

A proud sponsor of "ACME" Products, Makers of the "Movable Black Hole"

and other engineering masterpieces.....
Sours: https://www.community.boatbuildercentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23394
Boats Outboard Conversion. DIY Bracket / Pod for Outboard engine.

Single Engine Bracket With Platform and Flotation Box/Pod

Nextwave Marine Builds outboard engine brackets for any size vessel and shape, including houseboats and pontoon boats.   We can build and design anything from a single engine to quadruple brackets.  If you imagine it we can build it.   

Aluminum Brackets with or without Swim Platforms are designed and built for the boat that is being installed on.  Brackets are designed to help your vessel improve it’s navigation stability, speed and comfort with eye-catching designs to improve the look of your boat. 


  • Swim Platform Length up to 72" 
  • Flotation Style box 
  • 6” Screw in deck lid with seal 
  • Stainless steel drain plug with seal 
  • Non-skid in white 
  • Motor mount pre-drilled holes 

NOTE:  Transoms with Curved or Notch  are priced differently than standard flat transom.  A curve or notch transom means when looking at the boat horizontally some have a curve or outward notch.   

We offer in-house installation,  Dismount and mounting of the engine to the new bracket.

Add ons:

  • Dive ladder Mount ( Ladder not included)
  • Underneath Ladder mounts ( Ladder not included)
  • Rigging Tubes 
  • Installation Hardware/  Stainless steel ½” Bolts, lock nuts and washer, Aluminum Backing plates, mounting template, 
Sours: https://nextwavemarine.net/products/single-engine-bracket-with-swim-platform

Bracket outboard flotation

And they also said that she knows everything about everyone. Now Ill ask this know-it-all, thought Zuev, noticing Natalia who appeared at the door. And how was it on the list.

Why Not Put A Bracket On?

You see, my usual little world made a somersault and threw me out of my. Comfort zone so far that it was simply impossible to return to it. On the mother - because she could not restrain her lustful impulses, which led to a split in the family. To be more precise, it was a very stormy divorce, according to which my mother was left with a nose, and Valeria.

My sister, and I remained under the same roof with my father, who never had time for us.

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