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The Master Sword, from Breath of the Wild (Resin Kit)
This full-size replica of the legendary Master Sword is perfect for cosplay, collecting, or just hanging on your wall!
Measuring 47″ from end to end, but weighing only a few pounds, it’s sturdy, durable, and ready for paint – or display as-is!
There are now TWO (2) options!
Please choose either:
- STANDARD: solid urethane resin; sturdy; just over 3lbs weight
- FEATHER WEIGHT: “hollow cast”; epoxy or urethane resin and fiberglass; under 2lbs weight
This is an UNFINISHED resin cast, straight from the mold. Like all raw casts it will require some trimming, sanding, assembly, and possibly paint before being finished. Actual color may vary – items will most typically be gray.
Most items typically ship in 2-3 weeks. This allows me to work more efficiently, keeping the price lower for you.
If you need this item by a specific date, please contact me regarding that date before placing your order to confirm I can meet your deadline. Keep in mind you will likely need some time to finish the item before it can be used, so choose your desired deadline accordingly.
You will be notified when your order ships, and given tracking info.
If you're looking for high-quality and affordable sword mold - you'll find the best sword mold at great prices on Joom - from 3 to 28 USD. A wide range of available colours in our catalogue: Grey, White, Multicolor, Black, Pink, Transparent, Blue, Red, Brown, Green, Beige, Purple, Gold. Only high-quality materials: Silicone, Metal, Plastic, Faux leather, Fabric, Resin, Alloy, Paper, Synthetic, Wood; and popular brands: Shein, Yogodlns, LALA IKAI, MERRY'S, ZANZEA, ZSIIBO, Baseus, Sisjuly, Floylyn, EXOTAO, Finejo, Zeagoo, Avidlove, O.TWO.O, fenvi, TOMKAS, chuwi, Asstseries, KANGOL, USAMS, LASPERAL, Focallure, AUKEY, onemix, FLOVEME, ZAFUL, Ugreen, BAMOER, WOSTU, PUPPYOO, HEROBIKER, JewelryPalace, NAVIFORCE, Picun, KBAYBO, Rosetic, Vention, Chenistory, Astrid, Tronsmart, chuwi, Eachine, BlitzWolf, Ulefone, Skmei.
If you're not satisfied with the quality of sword mold you've received - please contact our support. We'll review the issue and make a decision about a partial or a full refund.
All products from sword mold category are shipped worldwide with no additional fees.
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Which is stronger for large sword replicas: Resin or fibreglass?
The biggest misunderstood thing with FRP fiber reinforced plastic, is it is the fiber that is the strength NOT THE RESIN. So, using a factory produced fiberglass shapes (Rod, strip, tube) is your best bet. These are pultruded, (the opposite of extruded). The fiber, (glass, carbon, Kevlar) are drawn out of a die (steel tool with a hole) and the resin is infused into the fiber before it leaves the die, The result is a solid mass of fibers, with just enough resin to stick them together. This is one way to utilize the most strength the fiber has to offer.
98% of the hand layups I have seen in my 30 years of movie work, would get you fired from a high end composite shop. The miss information circulated in the EFX business and the amateur prop community is disheartening.
If you make your own FRP, polyester resin or Epoxy resin, make sure you practice on a test piece (or three) and get to the point where you can use the least amount of resin, but still "wet" out your layers of fiber and leave no air bubbles. This takes practice, but even more, you have to know this is the best way to get the strongest part. If you listen to most "Hobbyists" you will be adding too much resin, and/or cut your fiber pieces too small. When wetting out the fiber, make sure to only mix enough resin to work small areas. Exothermic resins (Polyester and Epoxy) will set up faster in larger masses. So the resin in the cup will set up (harden) long before the resin in you layup. Mixing too much resin, just causes you to try and rush the process and wastes resin. Start in the middle of your part and work to the outside. This makes the fiber move around to match your mold shape, as the outer, cut, loose, fibers can freely move. Starting from the edge, sticks these ends down and the glass won't want too slide around as easily or it will want to keep "springing" up. Compound curves are pretty easy with cloth or mat. But tight 90 degree angles make things more difficult, as the glass is stiff and doesn't want to bend that sharply. (This is why glass and carbon are so strong).
This is why:
Vacuum bagging is a way to compress the fibers using atmospheric pressure the squeeze the fibers as close together as possible and a barrier layer and an absorption layer suck up the excess resin. Using carbon fiber with out vacuum bagging is like buying a $200,000 Ferrari and only driving it on a dirt road. You have spent a great deal of money for a performance advantage you will never see. High strength carbon layups are done in an autoclave., a heated pressurized oven. The compacts the fibers even more and the heat sets the resin in a controlled manner. This is where you get "stronger than steel" properties. You can't get these in a hand layup.
Fiberglass shapes are available at McMaster Carr and if you have a sailboat manufacturer or dealer, sail stays or battens, are a great source for premade FRP shapes.
Sword epoxy resin
Introduction: Make a Resin Fantasy Sword
I was asked to make a fantasy sword for a photo shoot. They asked if it could have a 'fancy' handle.
Step 1: Materials and Tools Used
I got a cheap kids plastic sword in the pound shop (thrift store). It was nasty soft grey plastic and hollow. The handle and blade were a simple push fit. The handle had some nice pattern on it, and the top of the blade had some 'filigree' style pattern too. I decided that it would make a good donor starting point.
I cut the filigree work off the top of the blade, retained the handle and discarded the rest.
The new blade was cut from 1/8" hardboard, I looked around for a pleasing pattern on the net, and adjusted it to suit. The strengthener for the blade is a 4 mm fibreglass rod sold as net curtain support very cheaply on ebay.
The only actual fit requirements were that the blade needed a tang that would slide into the handle. The rest of the shape could be anything you like. I cut mine to about 1 meter long. I cut it using a jigsaw.
The first job was to bond the fibreglass rod to each side of the blade down the centre line using two part epoxy resin. Make sure that the rod goes well onto the tang so that it will end up inside the handle. I left about 4 inches of the blade tip free of the rod to allow for sanding and shaping
In addition you will need some car body filler, some car body resin and some paints. A Dremel with some sanding drums will make light work of any sanding required.
Step 2: Preparing the Blade and Handle
Once the fibreglass rods have fully cured check the blade for symmetry and looks. Make any corrections or adjustments at this stage. Once you are happy test fit the handle by sliding the tang into the handle. Make any required adjustments to the length of the tang so that it fits easily, is not too loose and it buts correctly against the hilt of the blade. Also check the moulding of the cheap plastic handle, make sure that there are no holes in the moulding, especially around the pommel or you will suffer at the next stage. If there are any holes at all you'll need to fill / block them up using some of the car body filler mixed up to the manufacturers instructions.
The next bit is fiddly and can be messy - so be advised! Next we need to fill the handle cavity with a resin mix. This will make it all feel more substantial as well as bonding the handle to the blade. We could just use the car body resin on it's own but it is very runny and when cured it is brittle. I prefer to use a mix of the filler (a putty) with the resin (a liquid) in a ratio of 1 part putty to 1 part resin. Here in the UK I use 'Davids Fast Glass' resin and 'Isopon P38' putty. They are essentially the same material and use the same hardener. In the US I believe that 'Bondo' make both a resin and a putty that can be mixed. The resulting mix has the consistency of double cream and is known as 'Rondo'. - Support the sword with the blade upright and as perpendicular as you can possibly get. I place the handle into a thick plastic pint glass in case of spills. CAREFULLY make up your mix, add the hardener as required and then SLOWLY and carefully pour the mixture into the handle through the small gap between the handle opening and the blade. Try to fill it as near to the brim as you can without it spilling all over the blade. Leave it to fully cure.
The handle and blade are now bonded.
Step 3: Finalising the Blade
Once everything had cured I added the two pieces of the original blade with their filigree work to either side of the hilt using two part epoxy.
Next I mixed up a batch of the filler (putty) and using the plastic spreader provided I added the blade profile to each side allowing the fibreglass rod to give the high point key. I can only apologise that I didn't get images of this stage :-(
You build up the profile using the putty, sand back, add another layer and sand back and so on. You can create any profile you like, I went for a hollow ground look, but a straight to edge profile would look just as pleasing. I bevelled the cutting edge using the Dremel as well. Continue with this stage until you are happy with the look and feel of the blade. If you are intending using the sword outdoors I suggest you give any areas of exposed hardboard a quick brush over with some resin to seal out the elements.
Step 4: Painting and Finishing
First the entire sword was given two coats of grey automotive matt primer.
Next the blade was sprayed silver, the handle and the hilt were sprayed matt black and then parts of the blade were masked off and some black shadow detail sprayed on.
The upper hilt and the hand guard were given a steel metallic finish and the handle a bronze metallic finish. Then the whole thing was given a coat of clear matt lacquer
Step 5: Complted
The completed sword
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Igor lifted my feet high in shoes, methodically kicked me in the ass and finished there. He did not ask, but after that I sucked his cock for another five minutes. The husband sat in the car and waited for forty minutes, not realizing that at this time his beloved Vicusa was stuffed with sperm in her ass. On this day, two Arabs.
Were sitting at the chef's house from the very morning, I brought them coffee and cookies three times.
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As a boy, I was allowed a lot, and her parents kept it strict, did not let one go anywhere and controlled everything. She grew up as such a domestic girl, cut off from the outside world, but until that day I had no idea how. Much. I was the only outlet for her. If we were going somewhere together, then the parents never had any objections, and usually they did not even start talking about some kind.