ct-Open-Source / tuya-convert Public
Can confirm, also got the 4-pack from Amazon.
The EP2 is not flashing via tuya-convert and quite sure affected by the PSK Bug (https://github.com/ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert/wiki/Collaboration-document-for-PSK-Identity-02).
Unfortuntely the plug is now glued (clear plastic to the base) and soldered (ground contacts to the base, with the screws hidden beneath the soldered ground bar).
Got it open almost undamaged and can confirm there is still an ESP (ESP8285) in there, but no obvious ISP pinout.
Detailed instruction to open this sucker (they really don't want anyone to open it anymore):
- carefully seperate the clear plastic from the white base (glued at the contact point) - i used a small saw and carefully split the parts, then pushed them apart with a screw driver. The clear inlet looks almost the same as in the SP111 plug and slides right out of the top.
- once the top is off, there's the nasty part: the bar for the ground contacts is soldered onto contact from the base that goes right trough the entire plug. You need to unsolder it to remove the ground bar and be able seperate top and bottom. Beneath the removed ground bar are two small screws holding the plug insert in place. Once removed you can push the entire insert out of the base by pushing the plug pins into the base.
Tuya devices are sold under numerous brand names but they're all identifiable by the fact that they connect with these phone apps: "Smart Life" or "Tuya Smart". They incorporate different types of Tuya Wi-Fi modules internally.
Tuya has begun manufacturing some Wi-Fi modules using a Realtek RTL8710BN Wi-Fi SOC instead of an ESP82xx chip.
Tasmota cannot run on Realtek devices and there are no plans on supporting them.
Tuya-Convert is the most successful method of flashing Tuya modules without opening the device and soldering.
Tuya-Convert comes with build which includes basic Tasmota features required for normal operation with Tuya devices, while removing sensors, IR, RF and home automation integration support for reduced filesize. It is recommended to upgrade to a full build of the firmware () if needed.
To ensure Tasmota runs reliably execute the command after Tuya-Convert is finished and Tasmota is up and running. Doing this removes fragments of the original firmware left in flash which can create issues in the future. After all that is done you can proceed with the needed configuration of your device.
Help and troubleshooting for Tuya-Convert is done on Tuya-Convert's Github.
The fact that you can flash Tasmota on your device does not mean all of its features are currently supported. Please research before purchasing to see if other users have successfully flashed the device and are able to use it fully
- Tuya-Convert video walkthrough
- TuyOTA walkthrough
- Mock Tuya Cloud - A general purpose framework for interacting with Tuya devices without the Tuya operated cloud.
- Tuya API - A library for communicating with devices that use the Tuya cloud network.
Flashing custom firmware with Tuya-Convert
In a previous post titled Flashing custom firmware on Gosund SP111 devices I wrote about how I achieved this by connecting the device to a serial connection.
Having purchased what I believed to be the same product turned out to be the lower rated 2300W and look slightly older generation from the PCB which made it more difficult to flash without soldering due to only having solder pads.
This lead me to try using Tuya-Convert, a firmware replacement solution that does not even require you to disassemble your smart device.
While their repo describes how you can achieve this using a docker based solution I didn’t have much luck with the in-built WiFi adaptor on my laptop so opted for the Raspberry PI based approach since I had a spare one laying around.
Setting up the OS
Flash Rasbian onto the micro SDCard using balena etcher connect your PI and wait for it to boot.
Once booted you will need to setup WiFi on your device. Follow the official instructions on how to do this.
Next install to enable you clone the repo down easily.
Setting up Tuya-Convert
To avoid having to deal with SSH keys on your PI it’s simply enough to just clone the repo down over HTTPS.
Flashing the device
Tuya-Convert comes packages with Tasmota or Espurna but you can also use a different firmware which is explained during the flashing process.
To get going, start the flashing script:
Follow the on screen instructions be sure to put your device into pairing mode at the start of the process.
I opted to flash my device with Tasmota, which I then flashed the latest standard binary from their release page on Github via the web interface. The reason being that the bundled one is the minimal one and doesn’t come with all the support for all the sensors.
Once flashed I changed the template to configure the GPIO pins correctly to enable me to use the device properly:
ct-Open-Source / tuya-convert Public
I have had much success running Tuya Convert on various Gosund smart plugs.
I started a session with a new plug (Gosund WP6, others of which I have successfully converted), it found the switch, performed a firmware backup, and it got to the menu where I could select return to stock, Tasmota, Espurna, or do nothing.
Instead of proceeding with the tasmota flash, I selected do nothing, expecting it to leave the switch back to the original (factory) state.
But now the plug appears unresponsive. Pressing the button doesn't toggle the relay, and pressing and holding doesn't cause the LED to flash at all. In fact, the only time the LED flashes is when I plug the plug in, it flashes momentarily.
If I run tuya-convert again, it appears to detect the switch, but it hangs at 0% trying to download the firmware, and times out. The program complains about not being able to reach the device thereafter.
Did I brick my socket?
Tuya convert gosund
This device uses triangle screws, but they are easily accessed, and the unit is easily opened otherwise. Points for serial flashing are on the back side of the board after opening the case. These points are clearly labeled for G, Vcc, Rx, Tx, and IO0. Soldering on temporary pigtail wires for the serial flash is highly recommended. The points are too far from the edge of the board to use probe type spring clips.
Some additional suggested console modifications to do after flashing and configuring the template are listed below
Label the web-buttons to match the template
Rule for turning all the outlets off with a long press of the physical button.
The FCC documents indicate that this board design was used under other model names including: PM03, PM02, PM01, WB2, WB4, LB1, LB2, P3, WO1, WO2
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