M4 oil change

M4 oil change DEFAULT
This Inspection I oil change package for the F87 M2, F80 M3, and F82 M4 includes high performance BMW 0W30 synthetic oil and an OEM Mann oil filter. This kit includes everything you need for an oil change on the N55HP in the M2 and the S55 engine in the M3/M4.

  • 7 liters of BMW TwinPower Turbo 0W30 synthetic motor oil
  • 1 OEM Mann oil filter kit
BMW 0W30 is LL01 and FE approved. It's a similar formula to the previous 5W30 but with a lower cold weight and additional additives that make it more efficient. The revised formula reduces drag and friction, making the engine burn less fuel. "FE" stands for Fuel Efficient and this new formula has shown small improvements in fuel economy and reduced emissions. BMW 0W30 also has a low ash content which makes it compatible with the newest types of catalytic converters. This oil is perfect for a daily driver commuter car that does not see much spirited driving, track days, or performance upgrades (for those situations we recommend Red Line Oil. Although LL01 is a LongLife oil spec approved for extended oil changes, BimmerWorld always recommends preventative oil changes in the 5,000-6,500 mile range.

The Mann oil filter kit includes the filter, two cap o-rings, and a drain plug crush seal. We insist on OEM or Original BMW filters for our customers. Mann is an OE supplier to BMW for this and other filters found in your BMW. As an original supplier, Mann's filter products meet or exceed the requirements from BMW. They are engineered for the correct fit and filtration needs of the N55HP and S55 six-cylinder turbo engines. A oil filter housing cap tool is recommended.

2014 M3/M4 note: BMW used a different drain plug on the 2014 model with a non-removable seal washer. BMW recommends you buy a new drain plug for each oil change. You can add one from the link below. The filters are the same but you won't use the seal washer included with the filter. The 2015 models used a different oil pan with a more conventional drain plug and will use the seal washer included with the filter.

If you proactively maintain your car, and take interest in its care and performance, there are several other things to check during a routine oil change (aka Inspection I service):

  • top off and inspect other fluids: power steering, other hydraulic fluids, coolant, brake fluid (replace annually)
  • empty oil catch can (if added)
  • clean or replace engine air filter (replace annually)
  • clean or replace cabin air filter (replace annually)
  • set all tire pressures, including your spare (if equipped)
  • inspect brake pads and rotors
  • inspect serpentine belts for cracking
  • inspect all hoses, including power steering, for leaks or poor fitment
  • inspect intake boots for cracks or leaks
  • Take this opportunity to inspect the general condition of the engine bay and chassis. Staying ahead of problems, even minor ones, will help avoid major issues in the future. As well as help you get the most enjoyment from BMW ownership.



    BMW Fitments:

    2 Series
    F22 / F23 (2016+) > M2
    3 Series
    F30 / F31 / F34 (2014+) > M3
    4 Series
    F32 / F33 / F36 (2014+) > M4
    Sours: https://www.bimmerworld.com/Fluids/Oil-Change-Kits-Fluid-Service-Packages-Inspection-1/Inspection-I-Oil-Change-Package-S55-BMW-0W30-Synthetic-OEM-Mann-Filter-Kit.html
    This Inspection I oil change package for the F87 M2, F80 M3, and F82 M4 includes high performance Red Line 10W40 synthetic oil and an OEM Mann oil filter. This kit includes everything you need for an oil change on the N55HP in the M2 and the S55 engine in the M3/M4.

    • 7 quarts of Red Line 10W40 synthetic motor oil
    • 1 OEM Mann oil filter kit
    The approved oil for these engines is a 5W30 but there are many times where we feel that viscosity is too thin. And since BMW has discontinued 5W30 for 0W30 we are even more concerned for turbocharged models. During warmer months or if the car is used for autocross or light track use a heavier oil will last longer and provide better protection. Highly tuned engines also need extra protection, especially as underhood temperatures and pressures rise. Red Line 10W40 is the ideal balance between the efficient standard oil and a full race single grade oil. The heavier fluid does a better job of leaving a critical layer of oil on high wear parts - cam lobes, lifters, and bearing surfaces and helps piston rings seal better. Red Line Oil is simply engineered for a more demanding environment while still meeting API SL/SM/SN and ACEA A3/B3/B4 standards.

    The Mann oil filter kit includes the filter, two cap o-rings, and a drain plug crush seal. We insist on OEM or Original BMW filters for our customers. Mann is an OE supplier to BMW for this and other filters found in your BMW. As an original supplier, Mann's filter products meet or exceed the requirements from BMW. They are engineered for the correct fit and filtration needs of the N55HP and S55 six-cylinder turbo engines. A oil filter housing cap tool is recommended.

    2014 M3/M4 note: BMW used a different drain plug on the 2014 model with a non-removable seal washer. BMW recommends you buy a new drain plug for each oil change. You can add one from the link below. The filters are the same but you won't use the seal washer included with the filter. The 2015 models used a different oil pan with a more conventional drain plug and will use the seal washer included with the filter.

    If you proactively maintain your car, and take interest in its care and performance, there are several other things to check during a routine oil change (aka Inspection I service):

  • top off and inspect other fluids: power steering, other hydraulic fluids, coolant, brake fluid (replace annually)
  • empty oil catch can (if added)
  • clean or replace engine air filter (replace annually)
  • clean or replace cabin air filter (replace annually)
  • set all tire pressures, including your spare (if equipped)
  • inspect brake pads and rotors
  • inspect serpentine belts for cracking
  • inspect all hoses, including power steering, for leaks or poor fitment
  • inspect intake boots for cracks or leaks
  • Take this opportunity to inspect the general condition of the engine bay and chassis. Staying ahead of problems, even minor ones, will help avoid major issues in the future. As well as help you get the most enjoyment from BMW ownership.



    BMW Fitments:

    2 Series
    F22 / F23 (2016+) > M2
    3 Series
    F30 / F31 / F34 (2014+) > M3
    4 Series
    F32 / F33 / F36 (2014+) > M4
    Sours: https://www.bimmerworld.com/Engine/Engine-Maintenance/High-Performance-Oil-Change-Package-S55-Red-Line-10W40-Synthetic-OEM-Mann-Filter-Kit.html
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    With the all-new BMW M4, comes an all new motor, the powerful S55 which cranks out a staggering 425 hp and 406 lb-ft from a 3.0 liter inline-six cylinder. The drop in displacement yet increase in output from the previous generation is accomplished, among many other engine updates, by turbocharging, direct fuel injection and variable valve timing  The new S55 power plant comes a different set of specifications and thus maintenance procedures compared to the previous generation V8-powered M3.

    The new M4 requires a different oil viscosity compared to the E92 M3. BMW calls for 5W-30 for the new M4 and no longer is 10W-60 required in any new M car. There is even a new oil supplier for BMW, Pennzoil which produces this SAE 5W-30. Pennzoil is now the manufacture recommended and supplier for all BMWs.

    pennzoil 5w 30 750x750

    One the most important preventative maintenance items is the oil change. BMWs come with a 4 year/50,000 mile maintenance included, though this now only applies to the original owner. Many M enthusiasts owners believe in more frequent oil changes than those dictated by the service indicator which is telling owners to change the oil around 15,000 miles.

    BMWBLOG changed the oil on a 2015 M4 and documented the procedure.

    change oil bmw m4 images 18 750x563

    Going into this, I was confident this would be just like all other changes on BMWs, save the V8/V10s. I first removed the oil filter cap. This is done with a special tool that costs $20-25 from a BMW specific company like Turner Motorsports or Bavarian Autosport, and is the same size used on BMWs for about the last 10 years. The torque spec for the oil filter is low, only 25 Nm, so it doesn’t require a lot of force to remove. I used a bunch of highly absorbent shop towels to keep oil from falling down into the alternator which is right next to and below the oil filter housing. Next I took off the oil fill cap so when draining the hot oil, it comes out faster.

    change-oil-bmw-m4-images-09

    Next, lift your M4 up via your method of choice. We used a 2-post 9,000lbs lift and voila, found the drain plug. It is an 8mm hex plug and is not on there with much force as it’s aluminum, and is in an aluminum/magnesium alloy drain pain. Please note these are single use only drain plugs as the crush washer is non-removeable.

    change-oil-bmw-m4-images-07

    Be aware! Once I got the oil draining, I was amazed at how fast it comes out, so please watch out for splash and have a container that can hold at least 7 liters. Once slowed to a trickle, install new drain plug, about $10 and torque to 20 Nm. Crazy low, huh?

    change-oil-bmw-m4-images-05

    Next, we lowered the M4 and reinstalled the oil filter. Make sure to replace the two gaskets that come with the oil filter. There is a small, pain in the ass, one on the tip of the filter and one larger one that goes at the top just past the threads in the black oil filter housing cap. I like to lubricate these with some fresh oil so you get a good seal.

    Now it’s time to fill the M4 back up. BMW calls for 6.5 Liters, which is about 6.9 quarts, which interestingly is the same oil capacity BMW six-cylinder cars have had for 20+ years, back into the E36 era. I like to use a funnel so as to not make a mess. Spilling oil right by the filler cap lets oil get down by hot exhaust manifolds, a big no no. BMW SAE 5W-30 now comes in liters instead of quarts, so make sure to look at your bottle’s units to make sure not to over fill.

    change-oil-bmw-m4-images-22

    The final step is to put the fill cap back on and start the M4. The only way to check if you filled it right is to start it and let it come up to operating temperature. Once up to temp, go through the iDrive to check it.

    The hardest part of the oil change was locating the oil capacity of the M4’s motor. It is almost as BMW discourages owners to change their own oil in an M4. Digging through the entire owners manual of the M4, one cannot find the oil capacity anywhere. The viscosity is listed there is 5W-30, but not the capacity.

    change-oil-bmw-m4-images-32

    We contacted BMW to confirm our suspicion of the 6.5L. So were are happy to confirm that this is indeed the case. The oil capacity of the M4 is 6.5 L.

    Materials and Parts Used

    • 6.5 L BMW SAE 5W-30 (or Pennzoil Platinum SAE 5W-30)
    • OEM Filter Kit PN#11 42 7 854 445
    • One 8mm hex head drain plug with single use non-removable washer
    • Oil filter housing tool, 86 mm.
    • Torque Wrench
    • Torque Specs
    • Oil Filter Housing 25 Nm
    • Oil Drain Plug 20 Nm

    Here is a video showing the entire process of changing the oil in the M4:

    Sours: https://www.bmwblog.com/2015/05/27/how-to-change-the-oil-in-your-bmw-m4/
    How To Change The Oil In A BMW M3/M4/M2 (F8X) *DIY*
    Hi all,

    This is a basic DIY for an oil change on the s55, which is one of the easiest cars to do an oil change on. I did my own oil change today because while I believe the S55 is one of the best temperature controlled BMWs ever built, a new engine is still a new engine and is going to create filthy oil for the first few oil changes.

    Tools needed:

    Jack & Jack Stand
    7mm allen wrench OR 7mm allen socket (Let me confirm this size, this sounds small now that I think about it)
    86.5mm / 16 flats oil filter socket like this one (http://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-Sp...+filter+wrench)
    Ratchets to fit allen socket and/or oil filter socket
    Oil catch pan
    Gloves are recommended

    Parts needed:
    Oil Filter & new oil filter gaskets (2)
    7 quarts oil (BMW 5w30 or BMW's new "M-specific" oil which is 0w40 are fine choices)
    New aluminum oil pan screw and washer

    All of these can come in a BMW supplied oil change kit for this model

    ...

    Prep:

    I recommend either changing oil hot or at least driving the car for 5 minutes beforehand. The oil will drain out faster and you will mix in the dirt in the oil into suspension that will drain our better if it's been mixed up right beforehand.

    Here are the steps:

    1. Pop the hood and loosen the oil filter with your oil filter socket. This is just to ensure you can replace it before you start the rest of the job. The oil filter housing will drain oil back into the sump once you remove the oil filter abit, which is a good thing to do before you drain the oil from the sump.




    2. Loosen the oil fill cap or remove it. This is important - the crankcase on this car is exceptionally tight and your oil will flow out significantly faster if you loosen the oil fill cap. I loosened the cap AFTER I started draining the oil and I basically heard a "whoosh" as the oil flowed so much faster

    3. Ensure your car is in gear or at least the parking brake is set very firm. Jack up the car from one of the jack pads behind the front wheels on either side. Just jack it up enough to get under the car comfortably - make sure at least one rear wheel stays on the ground for safety purposes, as the rear wheels are what is preventing the car from rolling.

    4. Place a jack stand under the car. Look for an all-metal surface and not a suspension arm. The edge of the aluminum belly pan is flat and a good place to place a jack stand for this job. In this situation to me the jack stand is there for an emergency - you want it under something that will keep the car from falling on you.



    5. Locate the oil drain. It's towards the back of the aluminum belly pan. It's an inset hex key bolt head in an opening in the belly pan. No need to remove the belly pan or any sort of flap to expose it.



    6. I used a 7mm allen wrench to remove this. It took a bit of effort to break loose, but literally just a bit. Then it spun freely. The allen wrench was actually a nice approach as when the bolt came free my hand was well to the side of the oil flow. Drained very cleanly.

    7. Let the oil drain until it's just dripping.

    8. Nows a good time to replace the oil filter. It's a press-on unit, so just wiggle the old one back and forth with some pressure to remove it from the oil filter housing cap. Then pop the new one on in the same orientation (text on the filter faces up).

    The oil filter has two gaskets are on it. One is a very small green rubber o-ring about 1/2-3/4" in diameter. Pry it off with a small flathead screwdriver if you'd like but be careful not to mar the oil housing. Put the new one on and make sure it has some old oil on it - don't leave the gasket dry as you install it.

    Same thing with the big ~3-4" black o-ring gasket. It's purpose it to seal the oil filter housing cap to the oil filter housing. You pry it loose with a flathead screwdriver and work it off. Replace it the same way and give it a light coating with oil before installing it.

    9. Install a new oil drain plug with a new washer assuming it's just slowly dripping.

    10. I'm going to be a bit old school here. I tighten my oil drain plug and oil filter by feel and look, not my torque value. If you are uncomfortable or low on experience, use a torque wrench and torque to the appropriate value. I visually make sure the parts are seated and feel for it tightening up progressively as that seating occurs. I then seek a 1/8-1/4 additional turn which continues to get progressively harder to ensure the gasket is seated. In no case should it become very hard or suddenly want to stop moving. If it does that, you've tightened it more than enough

    11. Assuming you let everything drain plentifully, pour 6.5 quarts of oil back in the top.

    12. Check for leaks

    13. Start the car and let it sit for 30 seconds to make sure no lights come on representing a lack of oil pressure building

    14. Drive the car till you hit operating temp, park on a flat surface in neutral, and use iDrive to check your oil level to ensure it is topped off.

    ...

    Most here will either let someone else do their own oil changes or are super familiar with doing their own. This is just for those who might want to do some themselves and want a little familiarity with the process, parts needed, and tools needed.


    Last edited by JoeFromPA; 02-12-2015 at 12:53 PM..

    Sours: https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1090600

    Oil change m4

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    How to RESET THE OIL SERVICE LIGHT on a BMW M4/M3 (F80, F82, F83)

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